Instructions

The Elevator Supports Repair Kit includes 3D printed (PLA) tabs to repair the "Long Elevator Support" and the two "Elevator Side Supports." This includes two (2) pairs of hook tabs, four (4) long plate tabs, and one (1) 0.18 oz tube of E6000 adhesive (see Figure 1). You will also need a small stainless steel paint scraper or putty knife (not included).

ELEVATOR SUPPORT REPAIR STEPS
STEP 1: Break off what remains of the broken tabs.
STEP 2: Using the scraper tool, remove what remains of the broken tabs. This will create an unobstructed surface for the new tabs to adhere.
STEP 3: The "Elevator Side Supports" have one regular tab on the top of each support. These are the easiest to replace because the frame is slightly wider in this area and provides a good visual for placement (see Figure 2). Evenly spread a thin layer of the E6000 adhesive on the bottom plate of the replacement tab and place the appropriate tab in the proper location.
STEP 4: The "Elevator Side Supports" also have two hook tabs on the side of each support (see Figure 3). If only one hook tab needs to be replaced, use scissors to cut the plate. Make sure the tabs are facing down when you glue them to the support.
STEP 5: The "Long Elevator Support" has two tabs along the top of the support (see Figure 4). If possible, mark the center of the existing tab locations on the side of the Long Elevator Support. Use the mark you made to identify the center of the tab to determine placement of the new tabs and glue them into place.
STEP 6: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the tabs during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Elevator Side Supports (Bottom: Original Tab, Top: Replacement Tab)

Figure 3: Hook Tabs (Bottom: Original Tabs, Top: Replacement Tabs)

Figure 4: Long Elevator Support (Photo Coming Soon!)

Main Truss Support Repair Kit

The Main Truss Support Repair Kit includes 3D printed (PLA) hook tabs to repair the "Main Truss Support" This includes two (2) pairs of hook tabs and one (1) 0.18 oz tube of E6000 adhesive (see Figure 1). You will also need a small stainless steel paint scraper or putty knife (not included).

MAIN TRUSS SUPPORT REPAIR STEPS
STEP 1: Break off what remains of the broken tabs (see Figure 2).
STEP 2: Using the scraper tool, remove what remains of the broken tabs (see Figure 3). This will create an unobstructed surface for the new tabs to adhere.
STEP 3: Each side of the Main Truss Support has two hook tabs. If only one hook tab needs to be replaced, use scissors to cut the plate.
STEP 4: Evenly spread a thin layer of the E6000 adhesive on the bottom plate of the replacement tab and place the appropriate tab in the proper location and direction (see Figure 4).
STEP 5: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the tabs during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Break Off Broken Tabs (Top: Before, Bottom: After)

Figure 3: Create Smooth Surface (Top: Before, Bottom: After)

Figure 4: Replaced Hook Tabs

"C" Truss Support Repair Kit

The "C" Truss Support Repair Kit includes 3D printed (PLA) posts to repair the "'C' Truss Support" This includes two (2) posts and one (1) 0.18 oz tube of E6000 adhesive (see Figure 1). You will also need a small stainless steel paint scraper or putty knife (not included).

"C" TRUSS SUPPORT REPAIR STEPS
STEP 1: Break off what remains of the broken posts.
STEP 2: Using the scraper tool, remove what remains of the broken posts. This will create an unobstructed surface for the new posts to adhere.
STEP 3: Evenly spread a thin layer of the E6000 adhesive on the bottom plate of the replacement post and place the post in the proper location and direction (see Figure 2).
STEP 4: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the tabs during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Replacement Post for "C" Truss Support

Secondary Truss Support Repair Kit

The Secondary Truss Support Repair Kit includes 3D printed (PLA) hook tabs and a post to repair the "Secondary Truss Support" This includes one (1) pair of hook tabs, one (1) post, and one (1) 0.18 oz tube of E6000 adhesive (see Figure 1). You will also need a small stainless steel paint scraper or putty knife (not included).

SECONDARY TRUSS SUPPORT REPAIR STEPS
STEP 1: Break off what remains of the broken tabs/post.
STEP 2: Using the scraper tool, remove what remains of the broken tabs/post. This will create an unobstructed surface for the new tabs/post to adhere.
STEP 3: The Secondary Truss Support has two hook tabs on one side (see Figure 2). If only one hook tab needs to be replaced, use scissors to cut the plate.
STEP 4: Evenly spread a thin layer of the E6000 adhesive on the bottom plate of the replacement tab/post and place the appropriate tab/post in the proper location and direction (see Figures 2 & 3).
STEP 5: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the tabs during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Hook Tabs

Figure 3: Post

Mast Lights

The Mast Lights include two (2) 3D printed (PLA) mast attachments and four (4) non-flashing red lights (see Figure 1).

STEP 1: Remove and discard the clear plastic ring around the light fixture. Or, you can save the clear plastic ring in hopes that it becomes the next fantail rail and will be worth $300 in 40 years.
STEP 2: Turn the light upside-down with the top of the light fixture facing the ground.
STEP 3: Carefully unscrew the top section of the light fixture (the part with the bulb) from the lower section of the light fixture (the battery cover that also attaches to the mast attachment). Be careful as the batteries are stored in the section with the bulb and may fall out (see Figure 2).
STEP 4: There should be a round white piece of paper sitting on top of the battery (see Figure 2). This piece of paper was placed there to prevent the battery from making contact with the lower section prior to use and preserve battery life. You can throw away the white piece of paper.
STEP 5: With the round white piece of paper removed, screw the upper and lower sections of the light fixture back together. When you fully tighten the fixture, the bulb should shine bright (see Figure 3). The lights are turned on and off by twisting the light fixture.
STEP 6: Insert the tab located on the bottom of the light fixture into the rectangular opening on the mast attachment. It should be a very snug fit and sit flush on the base.
STEP 7: Place your new mast lights on your USS Flagg (see Figure 4). Show your friends and wait for the oohs and aahs.

Bulb Replacements: You can purchase additional lights through my Amazon Associates link: https://amzn.to/4e5gRuz

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Battery Cover Removed and White Paper

Figure 3: Light Fixture Turned On and Mast Attachment

Figure 4: Mast Lights Attached to the USS Flagg

Landing Strip Lights

The Landing Strip Lights include fourteen (14) 3D printed (PLA) base plates, twelve (12) non-flashing blue lights, and two (2) non-flashing red lights (see Figure 1).

STEP 1: Remove and discard the clear plastic ring around the light fixture.
STEP 2: Turn the light upside-down with the top of the light fixture facing the ground.
STEP 3: Carefully unscrew the top section of the light fixture (the part with the bulb) from the lower section of the light fixture (the battery cover that also attaches to the base plate). Be careful as the LR41 batteries are stored in the section with the bulb and may fall out (see Figure 2).
STEP 4: There should be a round white piece of paper sitting on top of the battery (see Figure 2). This piece of paper was placed there to prevent the battery from making contact with the lower section prior to use and preserve battery life. You can throw away the white piece of paper.
STEP 5: With the round white piece of paper removed, screw the upper and lower sections of the light fixture back together. When you fully tighten the fixture, the bulb should shine bright (see Figure 3). The lights are turned on and off by twisting the light fixture.
STEP 6: Insert the tab located on the bottom of the light fixture into the rectangular opening on the base plate. It should be a very snug fit and sit flush on the base.
STEP 7: Place your new landing strip lights on your USS Flagg (see Figure 4). Show your friends and wait for the oohs and aahs.

Bulb Replacements: You can purchase additional lights through my Amazon Associates link: https://amzn.to/4e5gRuz
If you prefer to replace the batteries instead replacing the entire light fixture, the lights are powered with LR41 batteries.

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Battery Cover Removed and White Paper

Figure 3: Light Fixture Turned Off and Base Plate

Figure 4: Landing Strip Lights on the USS Flagg Flight Deck

Commercial Toilets & Urinals

The Commercial Toilets and Urinals are each sold separately. Our example uses one toilet and two urinals (see Figure 1). The instructions are essentially the same for both. I recommend E6000 adhesive to attach the toilets and urinals to the wall. You will also need black paint, silver paint, and a hobby paint brush.

STEP 1: Paint the plumbing pipes and handles with a silver paint (see Figures 2 & 3). Allow to dry.
STEP 2: Paint the toilet seat with a black paint (see Figure 2). Allow to dry.
STEP 3: While the paint is drying on the fixtures, you can assemble the Restroom Stalls to help determine fixture locations. I recommend waiting until the stalls are complete before glueing the toilet and urinals to the wall.
STEP 4: Place glue directly on the back side of the toilet/urinal and place it in the desired location along the back wall (see Figure 4). The toilet and urinals are designed to rest directly on the floor and be at the proper height for 1:18 scale. No measuring is necessary. There is no need to put glue on the bottom of the fixtures.
STEP 5: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust your placement during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

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Figure 1: Unpainted Toilet and Urinals

Figure 2: Painted Toilet

Figure 3: Painted Urinals

Figure 4: Commercial Toilet & Urinals

Restroom Stalls

The Restroom Stalls Set includes one (1) Left Wall with Hinged Door, one (1) Latch Keeper Stall Wall, one (1) Urinal Divider, one (1) Shower Divider, three (3) Silver Stall Baseboards, one (1) Silver Door Handle, one (1) Silver Door Latch, one (1) Silver Stall Rail, and one (0.18 fl. oz) tube of E6000 Adhesive.

STEP 1: Glue the baseboards onto each of the three stall walls - Left Stall Wall, Latch Keeper Stall Wall, and Shower Divider (see Figures 2). The baseboard that goes on the hinge wall has an open end. You can use a binder clip to hold the open end baseboard in place while the glue cures (see Figure 3). The Urinal Divider does not have a baseboard.
STEP 2: Glue the door handle to the outside of the stall door (see Figure 4) and insert the sliding latch to the hinged door (see Figure 5).
STEP 3: Starting with the hinged stall wall, glue the back of the stall wall to the wood wall (see Figure 5). It should be flush on the left side and flush with the floor (no pun intended). I would allow this to dry for 30 to 60 minutes before moving to the next wall. Otherwise, the walls will continually shift and make it difficult to keep them aligned.
STEP 4: With the hinged stall wall firmly affixed to the back wall, continue with the Latch Keeper Stall Wall (see Figure 5). This wall is the receiving side of the door latch. The distance of the Latch Keeper Stall Wall should be determined by the width of the hinged door. Make sure your stall door is able to swing open and closed and glue the Latch Keeper Stall Wall to the back wall. Again, let the glue dry for 30 to 60 minutes.
STEP 5: The Stall Rail across the top comes in two parts. The longer rail has a closed end. Use a small amount of adhesive to glue the longer stall rail to the shower divider (see Figure 6). The longer stall rail has an open and closed end. The closed end is the side for the shower divider. The open end will be attached to the latch keeper stall wall. Make sure the rail is on all the way and remains straight. The shorter stall rail is open on both ends and goes across the hinged stall wall and the latch keeper stall wall. Let the glue dry 30 to 60 minutes before continuing. SIDE NOTE: The wall and rail are shown attached and upside-down in Figure 6.
STEP 6: Use a small amount of glue on the top section of the hinged wall and the latch keeper wall where the rail will rest. Place glue on the shower divider to attach to the back wall and then place the rail and wall in place (see Figure 7). Allow glue to 30 to 60 minutes.
STEP 7: With the primary walls and stall rail installed, glue the urinal divider to the back wall between the latch keeper all and the shower divider wall (see Figure 7). The Urinal Divider Wall is the smallest of the stall walls.
STEP 8: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust your placement during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

Enlarge Photos: Right click on images and select "Open Image in New Tab."

Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Silver Baseboards Glued to Stall Walls

Figure 3: Binder Clip Holding Open End Baseboard

Figure 4: Hinged Door with Door Handle

Figure 5: Hinged Door with Sliding Latch

Figure 6: Upside-Down Shower Divider with Stall Rail Attached

Figure 7: Stall Rail and Urinal Divider Placement

Figure 8: Restroom Stalls Installed

Drinking Water Fountains

Drinking water fountains are often found in pairs and they are intentionally placed at different heights in compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Therefore, each set comes with two identical drinking water fountains. You will also need E6000 glue adhesive.

STEP 1: Glue the upper water fountain first. The height of the first water fountain is measured by simply resting one fountain on top of the other (see Figure 2). Place glue on the back of the upper water fountain only and place it on the wall. You can leave the lower fountain (no glue on it) underneath for support until the glue on the upper water fountain dries. Allow 30 to 60 minutes.
STEP 2: The second water fountain is placed on either side of the first at a slightly lower height. To determine the height of the second water fountain, place a 1"x2" scrap piece of wood underneath the fountain (see Figure 3). Place glue on the back of the lower water fountain and place it on the wall. You can leave the scrap wood (no glue on it) underneath for support until the glue on the water fountain dries. Allow 30 to 60 minutes.
STEP 3: Finally, make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the fountains during the first few minutes.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

Enlarge Photos: Right click on images and select "Open Image in New Tab."

Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Upper Fountain Placement

Figure 3: Lower Fountain Placement

Figure 4: Water Fountains

Bulkhead Door Frames

Our Bulkhead Door Frames come with a front and back insert and are designed for use with a 1" x 6" wood board as the wall (see Figure 1). You may want to glue them in place with E6000 adhesive. You will also need a pencil, combination square, drill, 51mm arbored hole saw drill bit, and jig saw.

STEP 1: MARK THE CENTER... Identify where you want to place your doorway. The center of the doorway in Figure 5 is 2 1/2" from the edge. Using a pencil and combination square, draw a vertical line as the center of the doorway on the 1"x6" board (see Figure 5).
STEP 2: MARK THE DRILL POINTS... Using the pencil and combination square, mark 2 3/8" from the top and 1 3/8" from the bottom of the vertical line. This will mark your two drill points (see Figure 5). If you are using a board taller than the 5 1/2" height (actual height of a 1"x6" board), then measure 3 1/8" from the bottom for the top drill point.
STEP 3: DRILL THE HOLES... You will need a 2" (51mm) arbored hole saw drill bit to drill the holes for the top and bottom holes for each doorway (see Figure 2).
STEP 4: CUT THE DOOR OPENING... You will need a jig saw to cut out the excess wood between the two holes you have drilled. Use the 3D printed door frame and mark the side edges with a pencil (see Figure 2).
STEP 5: TEST THE DOOR FRAME FIT & SANDING... Insert the door frame into the opening. Make sure the flat side of the door frame is on the bottom. Test both sides. If it's too snug, you may want to sand the opening as you need to allow for a coat of paint.
STEP 6: PAINT THE WALL... Remove the door frame and paint the walls.
STEP 7: INSERT THE DOOR FRAME... It should be a snug fit (see Figure 4). If necessary, use E6000 adhesive to hold the frames in place.

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Two 51mm Holes Cut with Side Edges Marked

Figure 3: Bulkhead Door Frame Test

Figure 4: Bulkhead Door Frames

Figure 5: Bulkhead Door Frame Cut Measurements

Portholes

Our Portholes come with a front and back insert and are designed for use with a 1" x 6" wood board as the wall (see Figure 1). You may want to glue them in place with E6000 adhesive. You will also need a pencil, combination square, drill, and 44mm arbored hole saw drill bit.

STEP 1: DRAW THE LINE... Using the pencil and combination square, draw a horizontal line that is 2" from the top of the wall. This horizontal line will be the center of each porthole on the 1"x6" board (see Figure 5).
STEP 2: MARK THE DRILL POINTS... These drill points will mark the center point for each porthole. As a general guideline, place the drill point 2" from the top and leave 3 1/2" between porthole drill points (see Figure 2).
STEP 3: DRILL THE HOLES... You will need a 1 3/4" (44mm) arbored hole saw drill bit to drill the holes for each porthole (see Figure 2).
STEP 4: TEST THE PORTHOLE INSERTS & SANDING... Insert the porthole inserts into the opening. Test both sides. If it's too snug, you may want to sand the opening as you need to allow for a coat of paint.
STEP 5: PAINT THE WALL... Remove the porthole inserts and paint the walls.
STEP 6: INSERT THE PORTHOLES... It should be a snug fit. If necessary, use E6000 adhesive to hold the portholes in place.

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: 44mm Holes Drilled for Portholes

Figure 3: Front and Back of Porthole

Figure 4: Portholes

Figure 5: Porthole Cut Measurements

Stainless Steel Table

The Stainless Steel Table has one (1) tabletop, one (1) bottom shelf, and four (4) legs. Before you assemble the table, be aware that plastic breaks when too much pressure is applied. If the legs break during assembly, don't worry! Take a photo of the broken part and email it to me at [email protected] and I will send you a replacement.

STEP 1: Insert the legs through the bottom shelf. The legs have a stopping point that will be the support of the bottom shelf. Make sure you insert them from the bottom side of the bottom shelf (see Figure 2).
STEP 2: Place the tabletop face down on a firm table surface. You'll be tempted to hold the tabletop with one hand and insert the legs with the other hand. This is how pieces break. With the tabletop face down, align the legs with the holes on the bottom of the tabletop (see Figure 3).
STEP 3: Snap the legs into place. The legs should snap into the holes of the tabletop and hold firmly with very little or no glue.
STEP 4: Check to make sure the table is level. If the legs are uneven, then one or more of the legs did not snap into place. Repeat Step 3 to make sure all legs are inserted properly (see Figure 4).

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Figure 1: What's Included

Figure 2: Legs Inserted Through Bottom of Shelf

Figure 3: Legs Inserted Into Facedown Tabletop

Figure 4: Stainless Steel Table

Fire Standpipe & Fire Hose Box

Instead of the typical fire hydrant, Aircraft Carriers utilize standpipe. The fire standpipe set comes with four (4) Sprinkler Standpipes, three (3) T-Connectors, six (6) Elbows, and one (1) Connection Valve Standpipe.

STEP 1: Lay out the desired configuration for your diorama setting. Take time to explore all of the configuration options. Remember that the connection valve standpipe can have a left or right facing orientation (see photos). You can use the elbows to have the pipe go around corners. You can use the T-Connectors to have pipe extend straight out from the pipe along the wall.
STEP 2: Once you have settled on the right configuration for your diorama, measure the pieces as if they were connected to make sure they will fit in the space you have available.
STEP 3: With your configuration placed on a flat workstation, begin to glue the pieces together. Depending on the complexity of your configuration, you may want to glue pieces together in sections and connect them all together while you attach them to the walls. Make sure you are patient in allowing the glue to set and cure. The E6000 adhesive doesn't instantly set like some glues. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the glue to set and another 24 to 72 hours for the glue to fully cure. You'll still be able to adjust the pieces during the first few minutes.
STEP 4: Whether your configuration is glued together in sections or as one simple piece, test the configuration placement and then glue it into place. Again, be patient to allow the glue to set.
STEP 5: If you have the Fire Hose Box, it can be placed near the connection valve standpipe.
ONE MORE NOTE: Visit the Eclectic Products website below to view instructions and other information when using their product. https://eclecticproducts.com/product/E6000-industrial-adhesive/

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